Sealy Tarns Track - Aoraki / Mount Cook
SEALY TARNS TRACK
AKA : STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
The Long Way Around - BEAR’s Guide to New Zealand’s South Island
DISTANCE : 5.1km (from White Horse Hill Campground) (2,200 stairs)
TIME : 3-4 hours return
GRADE : moderate
TRACK TYPE : gravel, stairs, alpine trail
Sealy Tarns track is what I imagine being on a stair-master feels like, but with better views. Don’t let that deter you, this is a walk I would recommend to anyone spending time in the Mount Cook region.
After waking up at Skylark Cabin, having a morning soak in the outdoor bath and a cup of tea, we felt equipped to walk the Sealy Tarns Track. You can start the track at the White Horse Hill Campground, or at the information centre which adds a little extra distance. We didn’t know about the former, so parked our hire car at the info centre and began plodding along the boardwalk towards the mountain. We took every detour we came across in the hope of scoring extra views, which makes it a little tricky to determine the actual track length. Our Strava map told us that we walked 10km, however the information online states that the walk from the campground is 5.1km return, so that’s what I’ve rolled with in the ‘distance’ section.
After the section of boardwalk between the visitor’s centre and the campground, you will find yourself walking on a well-maintained gravel path until you come across a bench seat. The bench seat should be utilised because this is the beginning of the uphill battle. The steps range from moderate in size, to needing to push off your quad with your hands to make it up some sections (I’m only 163cm - bear with me). The track is tiring, but the steep ascent allows you to look back on your progress pretty frequently! Make sure you turn around to see how the view changes as you climb (also a perfect excuse for a breather/photo stop).
We had a beautifully sunny day to hike, which actually meant that despite being the middle of winter, we got quite hot and had to remove layers. As you climb higher, the shrubbery starts to become more sparse and the view really opens up - if you are blessed with fine weather you will be able to see Hooker Valley, and Hooker Lake!
After your quads turn to jelly and your calves seize up, you will approach a flat portion of the track, the end is near! It is at this point that you will need to put all your layers back on. Our soggy sandwiches were enjoyed at a long picnic-style bench which makes for a great conversation pit for fellow hikers to chat! A little further than the picnic table is a makeshift ‘platform’ that is a great photo spot where the neighbouring mountains feel so close.
The tarn was fully frozen (expected) so we didn’t get to see the glassy reflections of surrounding mountains, but it was pretty fun to walk across!
The end of the Sealy Tarns Track marks the halfway point to Mueller Hut, which is on our bucket list for next time - hopefully a summer hike to see a different side of Sealy Tarn. If you have the same social media algorithm as me you will have no doubt come across an abundance of pictures of a red shed in the mountains - this is Mueller Hut!
After feeling accomplished, we turned and headed back down, which is arguably harder than walking up (more knee stability and muscle control). Somewhere on the descent, Liam and I started talking extensively about how some people just don’t hike - and don’t feel like they’re missing anything. And then there’s us, who never even had the conversation. Of course we were going to hike in New Zealand. It was stitched into the trip from the start. Funny, the things that feel non-negotiable to some and invisible to others.
When we made it back to the gravelly track, we began to regret not parking at the campground. That last kilometre was where I really began to feel the exhaustion - when you’ve seen the sights and have come back down to Earth, all you want to do is be back in car having a snack. When we did arrive back at the car, I was pleasantly surprised that my hot water bottle from the morning had kept my seat nice and toasty, and the crispy outside air had kept our post-hike beers cold and refreshing.
Not much beats the carpark beer in the boot of the car before heading back to your fancy accommodation for a cheese-board and an outdoor bath, feeling that smug satisfaction that you climbed a mountain today.
Stray beautiful,
BEAR.
No robots were involved in the making of this journal.